NORTH AMERICAN TURBOCOUPE ORGANIZATION
Frequently Asked Questions
|
Common Problems Drivetrain/Brakes Heating/Cooling |
Engine Turbo/Exhaust Miscellaneous |
Electrical
Tuning/Maintenance Suspension
|
Below is a listing for most of the topics above (not in the order as shown), except those items which open in a new page.
Shut off warm motor and hook up timing light. Locate the SPOUT (SPark OUT) connector, which is a little plug in the harness from the TFI module on the distributor. It is about 8" from the distributor. Remove the SPOUT plug and start the car. Check timing. Stock setting is 10 degrees BTDC. Adjust by loosening the distributor hold down bolt (17mm, PITA to get at), and rotate distributor to set timing. Going to 12 or 13 degrees from the stock 10 degree setting gives better low end, off boost power, but can lead to detonation under boost. Every car seems to like a different setting, so you will have to experiment with it. When done, REMEMBER to reconnect the SPOUT connector before you drive the car. At Idle, with the SPOUT connected, timing will be in the 20+ degree range. If you should have to remove the distributor, then it is very important that before you pull the distributor out to work on it, mark the direction the rotor is pointing on some external reference point. (TIP): If you set the engine to TDC (Top Dead Center) for the number 1 cylinder so the rotor is pointed at the number 1 wire terminal on the distributor cap. Then remove the cap. Note that the rotor should be pointed toward the outside, front bolt for the upper/lower intake. That's your reference point.
1- First bring the engine up to normal operating temperature
2-
Turn the engine off
and unplug the Idle
Air Control. This is
located on the
backside of the
Throttle
Body near the
firewall. This
device is a round
cylinder
approximately 5
inches long with a
(2) bolt flange
and 3 wire male /
female plug
connector.
3- Using the small adjustable wrench adjust the base idle to 700 – 800 RPM
4-
Locate the Throttle
Position Sensor (TPS)
on the Throttle
Body. This is also
located on the
backside of
the Throttle Body
near the firewall.
This is a black
plastic device with
(2) screws that
allows adjustment
and (3) wire male /
female connector.
Connect the
voltmeter to the TPS
and ground. The wire
should be
the one with a green
strip.
5-
Using the small
Phillips screwdriver
adjust the TPS
output voltage to
approximately 1.0
volts. Most turbo
tuners find that
setting your voltage
to around .90 - .95
volts works best. I
set mine around .94
volts.
6- Turn off the engine
7-
With the engine off
and the voltmeter
still connected move
the throttle linkage
slowly from idle
position to
wide open and back
to idle, look for a
steady increase and
then decrease in
voltage without any
voids or
dead spots. Any
voids or dead spots
would indicate a
faulty TPS.
8- Plug in the Idle Air Control
9- Start the engine. The engine’s idle speed should settle in around 1000 RPM
10- Take the Turbo Coupe for a test drive
ACT - Air Charge Temperature
ATDC - After Top Dead Center
BTDC - Before Top Dead Center
ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature
EEC - Electronic Engine Control
EGO - Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor
EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation
IAC - Idle Air Control
ISC - Idle Speed Control
KOEO - Key On Engine Off; a self-test mode of the ECA
KOER - Key On Engine Running; a self-test mode of the ECA
KS - Knock Sensor
PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation
PIP - Profile Ignition Pickup
SPOUT - SPark OUTput; signal from ECA
TF I - Thick Film Ignition (module)
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
VAF - Vane Air Flow
VAM - Vane Air Meter
VAT - Vane Air Temperature
WOT - Wide Open Throttle
On the brake bleeding, the antilock system requires a bit different approach than conventional brakes. If your going to bleed the system, its the right time to flush them, which means keep bleeding until the fluid runs clear as well as no bubbles. As the T/C uses an electric brake pump and a pressure storage accumulator the system is different in the requirements for bleeding. The front brakes can be bled the old fashioned way. One person pumping and the other opening and closing the bleed screws. There is no need to start with the rear brakes first as they are isolated through the system antilock valve, but its a good habit to do it by the book.
Back Brakes:
The back brakes have to be bled with the accumulator charged up. Jack up the car and block it. Turn the ignition on and let the brake boost pump build up pressure and cut out. Start with the right rear, have someone push and hold the brake pedal down, do not pump, leave the key on as the pump has to be able to kick in to rebuild pressure during the whole procedure on the back. With the pedal down, open the bleed screw for about 10 seconds, then close it. CAUTION there is a lot of pressure at the screws, so open slowly. Also, don't run the brake pump motor for more than 20 minutes at a time, as the motor may overheat and kick out. There is a thermal overload switch in the motor to protect it so if it does stop, you'll have to wait for a while until everything cools down. Do this until the fluid runs clear, no bubbles. Move to the drivers side and do the same. Alternate between the 2 sides until the fluid is clear and no bubbles. It helps if you can slip a tube over the end of the bleeder screw and insert it into a bottle with some water in it. If air is coming out of the system, the tube end submerged in the collection bottle will show up as bubbles. When the bubbles stop, the air is out. I mentioned using water because brake fluid is not mineral oil, so why waste it. Brake fluid is actually made up more of an antifreeze solution.
Front Brakes:
The
front brakes bleed
with or without
accumulator chare
pressure. Just use
the same hose and
collection bottle
set up, start on the
passenger side. Have
you
"helper"
pump the pedal up
and down about 5
times. Get into the
habit of counting
this down so you get
a sequence
developed. At the 5
pump, pump down and
hold the pedal down.
Do not let go until
told. With the pedal
held down, open the
bleed screw slowly
and allow the fluid
to drain. Unlike the
back brakes, the
fluid will come out
in a steady stream
then weaken and drop
ff to no fluid at
all. When this
happens, tighten the
screw and pump it
again, hold bleed,
tighten and keep
repeating the
process until the
fluid is clean and
no air. Move to the
drivers side repeat.
Again, as with the
rear, do both sides
at least twice to
ensure there is no
more air in the
system. When all
done, with the key
on, brake pressure
built up in the
accumulator, pump
the brakes about 15
times to settle the
fluid and pistons
into place. Turn the
key off. Pump the
brakes again,
counting the pumps.
at between 15 to 20
pumps, you should
notice the pedal
pressure increase.
This means that the
accumulator reserve
has been used up and
all is well in the
brake world. It’s
safe to take for a
cautious test drive
to settle everything
back in. Any less
than 15 pumps, and
you still may have
air in the system.
One word of advice,
check the fluid
reservoir often,
real often, nothing
worse than bleeding
it out of fluid and
having to start over
again.
Age and sun will eventually cause the headlight lenses to become yellowed or cloudy and sometimes even fogged with moisture inside. The headlights are still available from Ford, part numbers are: (E7SZ-13007-A) and (E7SZ-13007-B) and the list price is around $45.oo ea.
To
replace the lights,
pull the halogen
headlight bulb (DO
NOT TOUCH the bulb
with your fingers or
it will burn out in
a short period of
time) out of the
back of the lamp
(don't loosen the
screw on retainer
lock) and remove the
in-board parking
lamp (between
headlight and
grille). If
headlight alignment
is OK, there is no
need to TOUCH THE
ADJUSTOR SCREWS AT
ALL, just release
the mounting bolts
behind the header
panel, undo the lamp
and pull the whole
headlamp and
adjuster unit out in
one piece. If you
have examined the
assembly, and
noticed that the
adjuster screws need
replacement, here
are the part numbers
for those pieces:
(2 for each
headlamp)#E7SZ-13032-C
($5.44 ea.)
(1 for each
headlamp)#E7SZ-13032-D
($5.41 ea.)
There is no need to
buy the whole
headlamp assembly
since it will end up
being far more
expensive than
purchasing the
needed parts
separately. To
continue, you will
see 3 twist locks on
the back of the
adjuster panel. Turn
them to open (they
are hard to turn,
brittle, and may
need replacement!)
and the old plastic
headlamp will
separate from the
adjuster plate.
Re-install the new
headlamp on the
adjuster plate,
twist the locks
closed and bolt the
unit in place.
Re-install inner
marker light and
check the headlamp
alignment and you
can see at night
again! It's a very
easy repair and will
make a 100%
difference.
CenterForce
Clutch Info. 1988TC
specific:
Info
provided by Center
Force (CF) http://centerforce.com/
tech. dept.
Parts
are for 1988
Thunderbird
Turbocoupe
Stage
II
part#
CFT360035
Approximate
prices:
Stage
II
clutch
$145
Disc
$95
Bearing
$32
CF
tech. dept. states
the Stage II has the
same pedal feel as
Stage I except
the Stage II has
better gripping
power in upper rpm
range around 4500
Common mistakes can
be avoided by
replacing the
following:
Replace Bearing
Retainer Collar
(aka the
Quill)
approx $40-50
Replace Dowel Pins
with new ones
regardless of
condition
Resurface Flywheel
or replace if
damaged or worn
excessively.
Important Info About: (from CF tech. dept)
Aluminum Input Shaft Retainer Bearing Collar Click Here This item is one of the likely cause erratic clutch operation, high pedal effort, improper release/engagement and most common; clutch chatter.
Self aligning type throw-out bearing installation tip Click Here
Clutch break-in Click Here
Normally,
an oxygen sensor is
designed to last
about 50,000 miles.
Its life can
be shortened
by contamination,
blocked outside air,
short circuits,
and/or poor
electrical
connections.
The oxygen sensor
can become
contaminated by, but
not limited to the
following:
1.
Leaded fuel -
leaded fuel is the
most common cause of
O2 sensor
Lead particles can
coat the ceramic
element and the
for proper
operation.
Silicone tends to
form a glassy
coating.
3.
Carbon -
Carbon contamination
results from an
excessively rich
fuel
coat the sensor,
too.
With
this in mind, you
may want to visually
inspect the O2
sensor itself.
O2
Sensors and Air/Fuel
Gauges (In-depth):
The
A/F Ratio Meter is a
voltmeter with a
range of 0 to 1
Volt. The meter
displays
LEAN
RANGE:
Four red
LED's
(.050
to
.249V)
STOICHIOMETRIC
RANGE:
Ten yellow
LED's
(.250
to .749V)
RICH
RANGE:
Six green
LED's (.750
to 1.000V)
The
STOICHiometric (STOICH)
air/fuel ratio is
the chemically
correct ratio,
Most (if not all) Fox cars have wear indicators built in to the ball joints. The spring puts the ball joints under load, so the "grab the tire and shake" doesn’t really work here. Look at the bottom of the joint - the flat part. There is a circular part in the center, maybe 3/8" to 1/2" diameter. If this is sticking up (pointing down) from the flat surrounding area less than 1 mm, the joints are worn. If it is flush with the flat area, the joint is BADLY worn.
Checking
Codes without a
scanner:
First off, pick up the diagnostic connector so it is facing towards you with the two open pins on the top and the four pins on the bottom (you are looking at the side opposite the wires). Next connect a jumper wire to the R.H. top pin and to the single wire lead. Next connect a test light to the 2nd pin from the left in the bottom row and connect the alligator clip of the test light to the positive post of the battery. Now turn the key on and the test light will flash out the codes.
BTW, when using the CEL light to pull codes, make sure the bulb is not burned out, or removed by a previous owner. The CEL should light up when the key is turned to the run position with the motor off? If it doesn't, the bulb is probably burned out or missing.
Ford spec book calls for 4 pints + 4 oz of friction modifier
EGR
Cleaning:
Fords
are notorious for
EGR problems.
The
EGR is a simple
system that allows
exhaust to be drawn
in to the intake
tract.
If you don't
have flow, it won't
work.
It's purpose
is to reduce
Nitrides of Oxygen,
(NOx).
Clean the EGR
valve.
The passage
in the actual valve
gets mighty gummed
up with carbon.
Look
carefully at how
the flow
works so you make
sure it's clean
enough to flow.
On a few
cars, the passage in
the upper intake was
clogged so badly,
that I had to ram it
clean with a
screwdriver!
The
connections were
flaky on the EGRV
solenoid, the
"relay"
that switches the
vacuum when it gets
an electrical signal
from the EEC-IV.
This caused a
No EGR condition
code 34.
On
another car, the
connections on the
EGRV solenoid, were
gummed up.
Once the
connection was
cleaned, code 34
went away, and you
could tell EGR was
flowing during the
beginning of the
Self Test.
Quick
check:
Run
EEC-IV diag, KOER.
First the
RPMs will come up.
Watch the
diaphragm of the EGR
valve.
It will open,
moving back about a
half inch, and the
engine will sound,
different.
If this
happens, EGR is
fine, no code.
IF you get a
code, the flow is
blocked, most likely
with carbon deposits
in the EGR valve
itself.
Clean
it. Note,
the code 34 may not
disappear on those
cars that were
modified through an
emissions recall.
If the diaphram doesn't move, it's not getting a signal or the diaphram is broken (unlikely). Other causes could be bad electrical connections at the EGR solenoid or a bad vacuum line from the solenoid to EGRV diaphram.
Cleaning
the EGR valve:
Remove
the valve, two
bolts.
I
clean all of the
carbon out from all
the valve passages,
using screwdrivers,
battery terminal
cleaning brushes and
other pointy things.
Brake cleaner
spray works good to
get rid of this
carbon.
Be sure to
inspect the valve
and ascertain which
way exhaust gas
flows thru the
manifold and into
the intake.
Map out the
whole flow path in
your head.
You
will most likely
find, that it flows
differently through
the valve than you
thought, and this
will then help you
to clean the valve
completely.
They're
particularly
confusing looking on
the 2.3 Turbo.
The
EGRV is an
electrical vacuum
solenoid.
It allows
vacuum to flow from
the manifold source
to the EGR valve
under command from
the EEC-IV.
It's supposed
to be around 75 ohms
I think (don't quote
me).
Sometimes
it's bad.
More often
the contacts are
grungy, clean it by
scraping the
contacts on the
valve and the
connector, and
resealing with that
silicone goo for
ignition wires that
drives out
moisture.
Checking
solenoid:
Use
a vacuum gauge in
place of the EGR
valve, run KOER, or
accelerate the
engine a couple of
times and look for a
vacuum spike reading
on the gauge as the
solenoid opens.
If you don't
get that, make sure
you have vacuum
going to the
solenoid.
Use a hand
held vacuum pump, to
test the EGR valve.
Ford's books
say the engine MUST
stall if you use a
vacuum pump to open
the EGR valve fully
while the engine is
idling.
It isn't
necessary for the
engine to stall, but
it should run a lot
worse, indicating
exhaust gas
recirculation (EGR)
flow.
Other
stuff:
Those
little plastic
vacuum lines don't
last forever!
Check them
and replace as
necessary.
And yes, you
can use regular
rubber vacuum
line.
If
your mileage has
dropped off, check
the EGR system
first.
The purpose
is to reduce nox
(emissions-talk),
but it also
effectively fills
the cylinders with
unburnable stuff
(exhaust).
The EEC-IV
knows this and thru
the 02 sensors
feedback provides
the correct amount
of fuel.
Recommendation… Clean your EGR yearly!
Ford issued an Emission Recall in which they replaced the cat and modified the EGR system by installing a "Delay Valve" which basically slows down EGR valve response and counteracts surging. The valve will open & allow/pass 7" of vacuum at anything over 7" source vacuum. This modification and Delay Valve typically triggers a code 34 that is stored in the computer, but is nothing to be concerned with.
TSB Number 93E45
Issue Date SEP 94
TSB Title Recall 93E45 - Catalyst Replacement
2.3L
Head - Bolts, Gasket
and Tip:
Get
new head bolts -
only about $10 from
Ford. Ask for
F3ZZ-6065-FB. Cut
the heads off 2 of
the old ones, and
use them for studs
to guide the head
down on to the
block. Get new dowel
pins too. Attach the
lower intake to the
head first, and
install as an
assembly. Be sure
the head and block
surfaces are 100%
clean!! If you want
the best head gasket
money can buy, get a
FelPro #1035 - it is
pricey, though -
about $50 from
Summit.
Remember to follow the correct torque sequence and steps for the head bolts. FelPro also makes another head gasket (8993 PT1) for our engines. It is considerably cheaper and more than adequate for all but highly modified engines.
This is not a modification for beginners. Other modifications are required. Major parts damage can occur and engine life can be shortened drastically.
The
kit that should fit
your car is part
number 05215nos and
will add 50-60HP
safely.
This
is normally enough
power to drop the
1/4 mile times by
1-1.5+sec. It uses a
single fogger ahead
of the throttle body
(but, after the
intercooler) to
inject fuel and
nitrous.
NOS Tech Dept
The
sporty low profile
look is given by a
taller wheel with
nearly the same
height tire but,
shorter side wall
tire. When you have
a taller wheel that
allows you to use a
shorter side wall
tire it does the
following:
•
Speedometer readings
remain accurate.
• Maintains
load-carrying
capacity.
• Wider
footprint.
• Improves
steering response.
• Improves
cornering force.
• A sporty
look!
This
concept is called
Plus 1 and Plus 2
tire sizing.
Remember that one of
the biggest
advantages in moving
up to a Plus 1 and
Plus 2 tire sizes is
the large variety of
touring and
performance tires
available in these
sizes.
Plus
1 Rule of Thumb:
•
Increase section
width by 10 mm.
•
(Side wall to side
wall in Millimeters)
•
Decrease aspect
ratio by 10 points.
•
(Section height to
section width
percent)
•
Increase rim
diameter by 1 inch.
•
(Wheel Diameter in
inches)
Plus
2 Rule of Thumb
•
Increase section
width by 20 mm.
•
Decrease aspect
ratio by 20 points.
•
Increase rim
diameter by 2 inch.
Example:
Common
tire size is
195/70/14 8"
Wide x 24.7"
Tall.
Plus
1 Rule = 205/60/15
8.4" Wide x
24.8" Tall.
Plus
2 Rule = 225/50/16
8.8" Wide x
24.9" Tall.
These
figures vary with
brand and width
wheel.
When purchasing
custom size tires
and wheels, purchase
from an expert.
Ask your tire dealer
if they are familiar
with custom tire
wheel sizing and
mounting.
NATO and it's members take NO responsibility for the outcome of this modification!
1988
Thunderbird Turbo
Coupe VAF mod -
Mike's VAF
modification for
more fuel
intake. If you
do not have a good
understanding of how
the air meter in
your Turbo Coupe
works, perform steps
1 through 5, start
the car, open the
throttle and observe
what happens.
The
problem with the VAF
is that is doesn't
send the maximum
amount of voltage to
the computer that it
is capable of when
the throttle is wide
open. At full
opening of the air
door, the contact
wiper may be as much
as 3/16" from
the end of the
contact area. The
VAF works like a
potentiometer - the
farther the wiper
goes, the more fuel
enrichment reaches
the engine.
Mike
says this
modification fixes
this deficiency with
no adverse side
effects.
1.
Remove the air
cleaner assembly and
the four 10mm bolts
that hold the
bracket to the
body.
2.
Remove the three
11mm nuts that hold
the bracket to the
VAF sensor.
3.
Disconnect the
wiring and the air
hose.
4.
Carefully remove the
black cover from the
VAF meter. It is
glued on. Work you
way
around it carefully.
You CAN get it off
without destroying
it.
5.
Put the meter back
in the car
connecting only the
air hose and the
wiring. Don't
put the bracket or
air filter back in
yet - just lay the
meter in the car
near where it
mounts.
6.
Start the car and
make a mark on the
white area to mark
where the wiper is
when the
car is idling.
7.
Shut off the engine.
8.
Remove the VAF
meter.
9.
Push the air door
open as far as it
will go and note how
much more travel the
wiper can
have without going
off the contact
area.
10.
Loosen the Phillips
screw on the top of
the wiper while
holding the air door
open. Move
the wiper to the end
of the contact area.
Don't go off
it.
11.
Re-install the meter
as in step 5.
12.
Start the car.
13.
Rotate the black
"gear"
around the spring
clockwise until the
wiper points at the
mark
you made in step 6.
This ensures that
the engine will
receive the same
amount of fuel
at idle and part
throttle as it did
before the wiper was
moved.
You may have to
tighten or loosen
the spring a bit to
get rid of any
bogging/ Only trial
and
error will produce
the optimum setting
for YOUR car.
The mod is done! I
take no
responsibility for
this procedure or
the contents of this
page.
Performance can be
gained using this
procedure, but if
you mess up your car
doing it, I'm
not liable. Any
questions on this
procedure should be
directed to Mike at
"ZIPPY2300@AOL.COM".
NATO and it's members take NO responsibility for the outcome of this modification!
If it's falling down at the same exact RPM every time then valve spring is one of the things it could be. A boost valve won't fix that. You can test for a weak/broken spring by using a vacuum gauge. Hook it up to a spare port on the vacuum tree. With the engine warm check the reading at idle. You should see 18-20 Hg. Bring the engine up to 2000 rpm. If the needle fluctuates rapidly between 10" and 22" and the fluctuations increase as engine speed is increased weak springs are indicated. If a spring is broken the needle will fluctuate rapidly every time the valve tries to close at idle.
Brief
description and
quick tests
following:
The
fuse links are
actually located at
the starter
solenoid, on the
drivers side inner
fender, covered up
by a small black
plastic cover. (In
front of the shock
tower)
There is a
common fuse link. It
will have a green
cover, whereas the
rest are basically
black or brown. (and
a couple of Blues,
coming later) Test
for power with a
test lamp on both
sides of the Green
link.
On
the downstream side
of the link there
will be 2 wires
spliced into one,
from the link. There
will be a Red/Orange
and Yellow/White.
They should both be
live at all times.
There
will also be a third
one spliced in and
it will be a Yellow.
Also hot at all
times. If you follow
this Yellow wire
through the harness,
it will not be to
long, it should
connect to a
Black/Orange and
Yellow/light Green
and there will be 3
more fuse links fed
from this splice.
These are all in the
area of the starter
relay, so at least
you are going to be
standing in one spot
for a while. These 3
fuse links just have
a black cover on
them, and the outlet
wire colors spliced
to these are 2 with
Yellow covers and
one with
Black/Orange. All
these wires should
be hot at all times.
From
here the wires feed
to the following
points. 1 Yellow to
the back of the fuse
panel, #1 fuse, 15
amp. This wire is
also split from the
back, un-fused power
to the ignition
switch, which is the
only other common
thread to all your
noted problems. The
other Yellow feeds
to the rear window
defroster. Does it
work?
The
Black/Orange goes to
the ride control,
does it work. Quick
check, Pull out #1
fuse, test light
both sides of the
fuse holder with
ignition off. One
side should be hot.
If not, fuse link is
gone or wire is
burnt off or cut
off. If you have
power to #1 Fuse,
put the good fuse
back in and pull #18
fuse, 10 amp. You
should have power
with the key in RUN
position. If not you
have to go to the
fusible links, and
check the blue ones,
with the key in Run.
If both sides of the
fusible link are
dead, no power with
the key on, it
points to a bad
Ignition switch.
When you are checking fuse links for power, move the ground on the test light from the battery negative, to the block and to the body on a few of the tests. If the light comes on bright on one test, and less bright with the ground moved or not at all, you may have some bad ground straps. Not overly common, as they will provide some ground even if dirty, but as you have no power at all, it’s something to check.
Which
is better for
monitoring a
vehicle's electrical
system? Short
answer:
A voltmeter,
by far. Electrical
guru Mark Hamilton
of M.A.D.
Enterprises points
out that amperage
is a measure of
current flow, so an
ammeter is actually
a "flow
meter" that's
intended to measure
current flow to
the battery (under
normal conditions)
or discharge from
the battery (in the
case of
alternator system
failure). On a
typical flow meter,
all output must be
directed through the
device to obtain an
accurate reading.
In the ammeter's
case, that means all
the alternator
output used to
recharge the battery
must first be routed
through the ammeter
under the dash.
Which requires
a heavy-gauge cable
and presents a
possible fire
hazard. And the ammeter
itself must be able
to handle all this
current flow, so it
must have a
higher current
rating than the
alternator's maximum
rated output.
All
this might be worth
the hassle if the
ammeter produced
reliable information.
But the ammeter can
only measure the
amount of current output
to the battery for
recharging purposes:
When the alternator recharges
a "low"
battery, the ammeter
indicates a high
charge rate; with a fully
charged battery the
voltage regulator
reduces alternator
output, and the
ammeter is supposed
to indicate a very
low charge rate. But
how can you
really tell the
regulator has
reduced alternator
output because the battery
is fully charged?
Maybe a diode in the
alternator rectifier
failed, or the
alternator belt
slipped after it
warmed up, just as
if the battery were fully
charged. Or maybe
the meter indicates
a medium charge rate
most of the
time-does the
battery want this
much or could the
voltage regulator be overcharging
the battery?
On
the other hand, a
voltmeter works like
a fuel pressure
gauge-but instead
of measuring fluid
in psi, the
voltmeter measures
electrical system pressure
in volts. Just like
a fuel pressure
gauge, a voltmeter
only needs to tap
into a circuit; all
the fuel (or
electricity) does
not have to detour through
the gauge itself.
Voltmeter
installation is
easy, quick, and
safe: It hooks
up to a fused,
ignition-switched
"off/on"
source and does not require
any modification of
the circuit used to
recharge the battery
or any part
of the
alternator/regulator
system. In short,
the voltmeter
installed at the
dash will be a
stand-alone
circuit.
The voltmeter directly measures the result of charging-system performance. With normal alternator/voltage-regulator function, battery voltage is maintained at 14.0 to 14.5 volts-and this is reported directly by the voltmeter. In the event of alternator-system failure, voltage will be low and continue to drop as the battery discharges. In the event of an "overcharge" condition, the voltmeter will climb above its normal zone. In summary, there is no chance for misinterpreting a voltmeter's readings as can happen with an ammeter.
Checking
Speakers for “In-Phase”:
Using
a 9V battery and two
small wire leads
about 12" long
(one red and
one black for
clarity), begin by
connecting the red
wire to the positive
battery terminal and
the black wire to
the negative battery
terminal. Now
hold the other end
of the black wire on
the negative
terminal of the
speaker, then
briefly touch the
red wire to the
positive terminal on
the speaker.
Be sure to
take note which way
the speaker cone
moves, inward or
outward.
If the
speaker cone moves
outward (away from
the magnet) then the
polarity of the
speaker terminals is
the correct and the
same as the polarity
of the battery
terminals. If the
speaker cone pulls
down into the
basket, the polarity
is incorrect meaning
it is reversed in
reference to the
battery, thus being
"out of
phase".
Poor
bass response often
indicates that the
speakers are out of
phase. This means
that the positive
and the negative
connections for one
of the speakers have
been reversed, which
causes the speaker
cone to move
opposite the
intended direction.
When the out of
phase sound waves of
this speaker meet
the in phase waves
of the other
speaker, the result
is cancellation.
This is most evident
in the lower
frequencies, and
results in a hollow,
tinny sound
quality.
To
see if this is the
case, move the
balance control all
the way to the right
or left while
listening. If the
sound quality
improves at the
extreme right or
left balance
setting, then your
speakers are out of
phase. To correct
this, simply reverse
the positive and
negative wires on
just one of the
speakers.
If more than two speakers are involved in the system, we recommend that the phase of each speaker be confirmed by making sure that the positive and negative connections are consistent from the receiver to the speaker.
Front
LEFT Driver Door
Spkr POSitive (+)
color is..........
O/LG
(orange/lime
green)
Front
LEFT Driver Door
Spkr NEGative (-)
color is.........
LB/W
(light
blue/white)
Front
RIGHT Passenger Door
Spkr POSitive (+)
color is ...... W/LG
(white/lime
green)
Front
RIGHT Passenger Door
Spkr NEGative (-)
color is .....
DG/O
(dark
green/orange)
On the actual diagrams you will notice the LB/W splices to BK/W and DG/O splices to BK/W (both denoted as negative (-)
Are
the 83-86 style
motor mounts
interchangeable with
the 87-88 style
motor mounts?
In general, the answer is yes. The whole mount has to be swapped which includes everything from the three bolts on the block to the single long bolt on the frame. The 83-84 and the 85-86 and the 87-88 mounts are all indeed different by design, but in fact are all interchangeable, as long as you change the whole mount.
* The insulator on the late 85/86 models is the smallest insulator used on TCs, and is hard to find.
* The insulators from the 87/88 can be used on the late 85 and 86 models if the top of the mount is drilled to accept the guide pin from the later model.
I/we have recently proven this to be a fact through actual trial fitting. I would say that since the 87-88 solid rubber ones are the strongest and best (stock) design, that they would be the one to duplicate.
My
boost gauge does
not
show any boost, and
my car has no power.
Does this mean my
turbo is bad?
It
is possible for the
turbo to be bad, but
there are many other
causes for little or
no boost. Check all
the hoses between
the turbo outlet and
the throttle body to
be sure the clamps
are tight, and the
hoses do not have
any rips or tears,
or were not
"folded
over" on
themselves last time
they were
reinstalled. Look
for intake
restrictions, such
as a VAM to turbo
hose that collapses,
and exhaust
restrictions, such
as a plugged cat
converter. You can
test for exhaust
restrictions by
loosening the down
pipe from the turbo
outlet and driving
the car to see if
the lost power
returns. Check your
ignition timing.
Also check your
timing belt and
valve timing to be
sure the timing belt
has not skipped a
tooth.
If all these check out OK, remove the VAM to turbo hose, and the turbo inlet elbow so you can see and feel the compressor wheel. Reach in, and try to spin the compressor wheel. It should spin freely. Try to move the wheel up and down and side to side. You should be able to feel some play, but not much. Look at the blades to see if the edges are damaged from contact with the housing. If so, the turbo needs a rebuild. Push / pull in the wheel to feel for axial play. There should be almost none. If axial play is more than a few thousandths of an inch, a rebuild is in order.
There is oil in the throttle body, turbo housing, VAM, and intercooler by Jeff Korn
Does this mean my turbo is leaking oil and needs to be replaced?
It
is normal for there
to be a very light
film of oil in these
areas, but lots of
oil (puddles)
indicate a problem
somewhere. The most
common cause of
excessive oil in the
intake system is a
leaky PCV valve
allowing boost to
pressurize the
crankcase, which
forces oil out
through the oil
separator at the
back of the valve
cover, and down
through the tube
that connects the
separator to the
turbo inlet. In
severe cases, this
can even cause the
dipstick to blow
out, and spray oil
all over the engine
compartment. Replace
the PCV valve with
ONLY THE FORD PART!
The part number is
EV127A. Clean out
the oil separator on
the valve cover with
brake cleaner. You
may want to clean
out the other oil
separator down on
the block where the
PCV hose enters the
block also. Some
people put a one way
check valve in the
hose between the PCV
valve and the intake
to positively
eliminate this
problem. Get a
F3XY-2365-A 1993
Mercury Villager
brake booster check
valve for this
purpose. It costs
under $10 at and
Ford or LM dealer.
The
next most common
cause of this
problem is worn
rings allowing
excessive blow by,
which will also
pressurize the
crankcase in much
the same way a bad
PCV valve does. A
compression test may
help diagnostics
here, but a leak
down test will
locate this problem
for sure.
Excessively worn
intake valve guides
and shot or missing
valve stem seals can
also leak boost from
the intake into the
crankcase, so you
may want to have a
look at those
also.
If the above check out OK, it is time to pull off the turbo for inspection.
My
car runs rough
and/or misses
There
are several possible
causes. If the car
has not had a tune
up in the last 15K
miles, that would be
a suggested first
step. Use only Ford
Motorcraft plug
wires, Motorcraft or
Autolight plugs and
replace the
distributor cap and
rotor. Use Autolite
764 copper plugs.
You can probably run
platniums if you
want.
Clean
the IAB, make sure
EGR is not sticking.
Remove
the idle air bypass
valve (IAB) from the
back of the throttle
body. It is the
metal cylinder,
about 1" in dia,
and several inches
long with a 2 wire
electrical plug on
it. It is attached
with 2 bolts,
5/16" head, I
think. The TPS
attaches right below
the IAB. Removing
the IAB makes
installing the TPS
easier. While you
have the IAB off,
blast the snot out
of it with brake
cleaner. If the
gasket rips, just
make a new one out
of thin cardboard.
(from Jeff K.)
Check
codes. (see
elsewhere on how to
retrieve trouble
codes from the
EEC)
Check TFI (See the article on adjusting idle and setting the TPS)
What is involved in changing an Auto to a 5 speed?
Parts needed: Clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, flywheel, clutch fork and manual transmission from a turbo car (not 5.0), manual trans bell housing and the trans support cross member. Also the master and slave cylinders and connecting line from a an 87-88 TC for 87-88 TC, otherwise the clutch cable and quadrant for pre 86 TCs. The computer from a manual trans car is preferable. Also needed is the complete pedal assembly, clutch depressed switch.
My Exhaust Manifold is Glowing Red
A
leaky intake
manifold gasket will
suck in un-metered
air under no boost
conditions, making
the mixture lean,
which will produce
high exhaust temps.
Under boost, air
will leak out, and
it will run rich,
which, if real rich,
can also lead to
high exhaust temps.
What
about your ignition
timing? Excessively
advanced or retarded
timing will also
lead to high exhaust
temps.
With
all that said, if
you pop the hood,
especially at night,
right after some
"spirited
driving", it is
normal for the
manifold and turbo
turbine housing to
glow a dull red, but
it should not glow
if you drive it
easy, and stay out
of boost most of the
time.
A
clogged catalytic
converter can cause
the manifolds to
glow. A clogged cat
is usually
accompanied by a
noticeable lack of
power and reduced
maximum boost.
Just
bought a TC, what
should I check.
What
needs to be done
right away? That
depends on what kind
of condition the car
was in when you
bought it. Check
that the bolts
connecting the drive
shaft to the
differential are
tight.
Hook
up a code scanner
and see which
sensors need
attention.
Oil should be changed every 3000 miles. A lot of turbo owners run synthetic because it is more heat resistant to cooking which can clog the oil passages in the turbo. A tune-up should be done every 15K miles with plugs, cap and rotor. Spark plug wires need to be replaced every 1-2 years depending on use and mileage. It's highly recommended to use Ford Motorcraft wires from the Ford dealer because several people have had numerous problems such as missing with other brands. The cam timing belt should be replaced every 60K miles. If it breaks you are stranded (though these are non interference engines so no damage should occur). Other good things to do include replacing the fuel filter ($10) located about midway under the passenger side of the car. Purchasing a $30+ code scanner and checking codes is always a good idea. If you plan to keep the car, the code scanner will more than pay for itself. Inspecting the brakes is a good idea (especially the rears because of the slider pins that tend to freeze up from corrosion). Other good things to do are change fluids in the transmission and rear axle, same with the power steering fluid. Flush the radiator and put in fresh antifreeze if over 3 years since it's been done.
Can
I upgrade to a T-3
turbo in my 87-88
Turbo Coupe?
The
86's had a T3 while
the 87-88's had an
IHI. The IHI is a
smaller turbo, which
won't handle as much
boost (15-18lbs) or
provide as much HP,
however it spools up
quicker so the lag
time for the boost
to kick in is less.
The
T3 can be boosted up
to 20-22lbs and
provides more power
but spools up a
little slower? IMHO,
the T3 is a good
upgrade and will
bolt right up.
The
T-3 will bolt right
up. However, the T-3
requires a different
oil return line than
the IHI. You will
have to do a little
work hooking up the
coolant supply and
return circuit but
that isn't too hard
to fab with parts
from a well supplied
hardware store. You
also need to take
the compressor inlet
from your IHI and
put it on the T-3
for the extra vacuum
ports. The inlets
interchange with no
modification.
It's
a bolt on but you
will have to get a
T-3 oil return line,
they are different
from the IHI return
lines. You will
either need the SVO
water supply line
and return line or
do a little
fabrication. It can
be done with regular
fittings and some
imagination.
If from an older TC or Merk you will either have to change the compressor housing in order to connect up to the intercooler or machine the flange off the original housing to get the hose on it.
To
get the T3 to fit
with the stock DP,
all you have to do
is elongate the two
holes in the flange
that secures the DP
to the outlet elbow.
If the T3 has the
SVO style compressor
outlet (no flange
like there is on the
83-86 TC), it will
fit right up to the
stock IC.
The below recalls and info are for 1988 Ford Thunderbird L4-140 2.3L SOHC Turbo.
For other years/makes/models, please visit the NHTSA - Recall Database
Safety Recalls
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
1. 95S28 NOV 95 Safety Recall 95S28 - Ignition Switch Replacement
2. 88S45 MAR 88 Recall 88S45 - Turbo Rear Axle Shaft Replacement
Emissions Recalls
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
1. 93E45 SEP 94 Recall 93E45 - Catalyst Replacement
Service Bulletins:
To view service bulletins for 1988 TC's, visit the AllData web page
For other years/makes/models, visit the NHTSA - Recall Database
Diagnosing
a "No Start
Condition":
To
run, it needs
compression,
properly timed
spark, and fuel. Do
you have
wire off
distributor, and put
a old spark plug on,
lay it on the
If
the rotor is not
pointing at the #1
plug wire, either
your cam drive belt
is broken, or has
jumped one or more
teeth (most likely
explanation), or the
distributor drive
gear / aux. shaft
gear have suffered
severe damage.
If
you have spark, do
you hear the fuel
pump run for a
second
You
do not need a code
scanner to get
codes. If you have a
CEL (check engine
light), all you need
is a paper clip to
jumper the STI
pigtail at the EEC
test connector to
the SIG RETURN wire.
These are located on
the river's side,
under the hood, near
the starter relay.
If you do not have a
CEL, you also need
an analog voltmeter.
The Mustang
Corral has a good
tech article on
doing this - http://www.corral.net.
The code test comes
in 2 parts - key on,
engine off (KOEO),
which checks all
sensors and wiring
as well as output's
intermittent fault
codes, and the key
on, engine running
test (KOER), which
tests sensors and
wiring under
operating
conditions. See the
articles at the
Corral for details
of performing code
scans
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Ranger
Roller Camshaft
- by
Jeff
Korn and Pete Dunham
The Ranger Roller Camshaft is a relatively mild camshaft. That is its appeal as turbo engines seem to respond best to relatively mild timing events. Its other advantage is that it's a roller so there may be some gains from friction reduction, and cam life will be greatly increased. If you need to pass an emissions test, the Ranger Roller will pass with ease, assuming the rest of the motor and EEC electronics are working correctly. It is reportedly a good low end cam and strong in the middle. It is not a high end cam because of relatively low lift (about 0.355"). The later slider stock cams have a lift of about 0.400"
An adjustable cam sprocket cam be used to move the power band up or down the RPM range. Retarding the cam pushes power up in the rpm range while advancing the cam drops the power peak lower in the rpm range. Since it is a relatively low lift cam, stock valve springs in good condition are more than sufficient. It is relatively inexpensive, especially used from a junkyard. It is very long lived so a junkyard cam can be a good find. It can be purchased new from NAPA for around $200 for cam and rollers. Years for the desired cam are 89 to 93 from Rangers and 91 to 93 from Mustangs. Camshaft bearings are the same.
The cam can be installed with the motor in the car if the motor mounts are loosened and the front of the motor jacked up so the cam will clear the radiator and A/C condenser. Getting at the two screws that hold the cam retaining plate to the back of the rear most cam tower can be a challenge with the motor in the car. Since removing the head is pretty easy on these motors, head removal may be the best way to replace the cam, especially if the A/C works and you don’t want to remove the condenser.
Part Numbers:
Ford: Cam (Ford part# E7TZ-6250-C) $187.00, Followers (F1ZZ-6564-A) 24.48 ea.
NAPA: Cam -(cep2292194) $84.99, Followers (2142144) $12.99ea
How Factory and Aftermarket Boost Controls Work - by Jeff Korn/Pete Dunham
Boost
is controlled, on
our cars, by a waste
gate (WG). The waste
gate, when closed,
forces all the
exhaust gas
to flow over the
turbine wheel and
spin the compressor
wheel to build
boost. The WG is
controlled by the waste
gate actuator (WGA)
which is a diaphragm
driven device with a
control rod on one
side that is hooked
to the WG. The WGA
is spring loaded and
set to begin opening
the waste gate when
it receives a
certain level of
boost through the
hose that goes to
the diaphragm
(10-psi on Ford
turbos). What both
the factory and
aftermarket boost
controllers do is
control when the WGA
actually receives
boost. The factory
BCS (boost control
solenoid) in
conjunction with the
EEC will allow up to
10 psi of boost
whenever the turbo
can build it but
won't deliver more
than 10 psi in the
upper 3 gears until
the engine is around
4000 rpms or a
little more. It does
this by sending
boost pressure to
the WGA when the
boost is at 10 psi
and rpms below 4000.
When the engine
reaches 4000
(approx.) the BCS
bleeds or “leaks”
off the boost signal
to the WGA. This
fools the WGA into
thinking the boost
pressure is lower
than it actually is.
When the BCS bleeds
pressure off the WGA,
the actual boost
pressure will be
about 15 psi, but
the WGA will see
only 10 psi. This
lower 10-psi will
open the WG allowing
some exhaust gas to
bypass the turbine
wheel so boost does
not build beyond 15.
(This is a
generalization, not
all years of TCs
follow this exactly
as far as what boost
level and what rpm)
The Gillis valve and
other types take
control of the boost
signal to the WGA
away from the
factory BCS and EEC.
Inside the Gillis
valve is a check
ball and spring. The
ball and spring
block the flow of
boost (not vacuum)
through the valve
and to the WGA until
the preset boost
level is reached.
When that level is
reached, the spring
can no longer hold
the ball over the
orifice. Boost
enters the valve and
on to the WGA, which
opens the WG. The
Gillis valve doesn't
know or care what
the engine rpms are,
it only responds to
the level of boost.
This is why it can
allow full boost
lower in the rpm
range. The Gillis
valve also has a
very small bleed
orifice that allows
the pressure in the
WGA to drop when the
throttle is closed
so the WGA doesn’t
stay open.
Electronic Climate Control Display Blinks - How to pull codes - by KellyB & Shannon
Blinking
of the VFD (temp
display) or LEDs on
control buttons is
an indication that
the control head has
detected a fault.
You can test for the
fault by
simultaneously
pushing the OFF/AUTO
and DEFROST button,
and then within 2
seconds pushing the
AC button. An error
code will be
displayed on the
VFDs. 88 or 09
indicates no fault
found. If you get
any other number
post it here and
someone can decode
it from the manual
(section
36-75-43)You can do
this at anytime but
ambient temp should
be greater
then 50 F.
Codes:
01 = Blend Door
Actuator
02 = Floor/Panel
Door Actuator
03 = Panel/Defrost
Door Actuator
04 =
Outside/Reticulation
Door Actuator
05 = Blend Door
Actuator Current
06 = Floor/Panel
Actuator Current
07 = Panel/Defrost
Actuator Current
08 =
Outside/Recirculation
Current
09 or 88 = No Faults
found
10 = If code 10
comes with other
codes ignore it, but
if alone it means no
faults
11 = Clutch Signal
Low
12 & 13 =
Sensors (there are
2-Ambient and
In-Vehicle)
14 = Faulty Control
assembly
15 = Blower Motor
Inoperative
Electronic Climate Control Display - Fahrenheit/Celsius
There is a red wire that grounds to the metal frame of the dash and connects to the back of the EATC module via the gray connector , remove the ground wire and it will display Fahrenheit.
Door glass came off the track and dropped - by Nate Killmon
You need to get some windshield Urethane adhesive. You can find it in most parts stores like NAPA, etc. It's made by several companies like 3M, Sika, Essex, QuickDry and few others. Take some emery cloth or mild sandpaper and roughen up both the inside of the clips and the glass where the clips go. Next drill 1 or 2 small holes (drill bit size either 3/16 to 1/4 inch in diameter) into each clip. This hole(s) will allow the urethane to escape, preventing air pockets, as well as acting like an anchor pin. This hole(s) is the trick to getting a good bond between the clip and glass. After drilling the holes and scuffing the clips and glass, clean both the glass contact areas and plastic clips well with acetone or alcohol (be careful with acetone, it will eat plastic quick). Once it's clean and dry you can apply the urethane. Seat the window in the clips and put the window all the way up. You MUST leave it up for at least 48 hours to allow the urethane to fully cure.
DO NOT waste your time or money on rear view mirror glue, silicone, or other regular glues and adhesives. Yes they will hold it, but only for a limited period of time before they separate again. Do it right, Do it once! The glass is very heavy and there is a lot of pressure applied to it going up and down.
Essex U-418HV Quick Cure Urethane Adhesive.
Terry Swart (tlswart) found/used another type of adhesive, 3M Wind-Weld Super Fast Urethane Part #0 51135-08609 available at O'Reiley's and other auto parts store.
Tip
from Pete Dunham...
"Also make sure
all sliding/moving
parts move free and
easy. When I did
mine I found the
glide bar that the
window glass
attaches to was full
of a sand like
substance and moved
stiffly. I think
this may have had
something to do with
the glass pulling
out in the first
place + it puts more
strain on the motor.
I spent quite awhile
cleaning the slide
and lubed
everything. It's
working well
now."
(Note
added Feb. 2005) info
provided by
P. Pflaumer
at
ReichmanP@aol.com
There is an aftermarket kit for attaching door glass to the regulator. It
consist of a fluted channel with a nylon set screw for replacement of the
original glued on channels. It is available from Lawrence Lincoln Mercury in
Trenton, NJ as well as other Ford dealerships and most auto glass shops.
Back
to Top
Split Intercooler Hose "Quick Fix" - by Jeff Korn
Go to the local hardware store plumbing dept, and get some rubber PVC pipe couplers for about $2 each. The coupler for 2" ID PVC pipe is a perfect fit for the IC to TB hose, and the coupler for 1 1/2" ID PVC pipe is a perfect fit for the turbo to IC hose. You will need to cut an inch or so off one end to shorten them a bit. They will work until you can get some official replacement silicone hoses, or just leave them on for good. I have had a set of these on my TC for the last 6 months after I split a hose, and they still seem as good as new. I do carry a spare set in the truck, though, so I can pop a new one on if one blows while I am out on the road.
Note: one source of regular I/C hoses is Tiny Avenger - see Vendors links page
Ground Effects - by Nate Killmon
There was no dealer options for ground effects. Unfortunately most aftermarket companies such as Erebuni, Pacific, as well as several others, have stopped making kits for our cars.
There is only two manufacturers of ground effects for the 87-88's that I'm aware of currently.
GSTfx located in Wisconsin makes fiberglass kits, made when ordered, usually takes about a week. These kits fit over the existing panels, however the fiberglass kits do have to be trimmed and fitted to the car. They are not hard to install, just takes some time and patience to fit them properly. Most kits come with exhaust tips for the rear. Other items are available with the kits including light kits, wings, etc. For more information call GSTfx at 877 506-5695, they are very knowledgeable and great to talk with. I hope to have more pics available in the near future. The pic below is off their website. Keep in mind these kits cost more than the plastic kits, but you get your money worth because they are fiberglass which is much stronger and should any piece become damaged it can easily be repaired by most anyone or any shop without special tools.
Visit GSTfx web site at http://www.sleepyvalley.com/carkt.html
MCK Plastics - Kobel Brand
Note: MCK's website is down as of Jan 2003. They are in the process of building an entirely new site that should be up and running by March 2003 if all goes well. In the meantime you can contact them at:
MCK
Plastics Inc
Po Box 200849
San Antonio, TX
78220
Local area (210)
661-0007
Toll Free
800-685-6235
Email: mck@txdirect.net
McK
is actually the
maker of the Kobel
Brand which still
offers kits for TC's
and T-birds.
Their kits are high
quality injection
molded ABS Plastic,
and look really good
installed.
Their kit for the
87-88 TC's sells for
$479.00 as of
January
2003. The front
and rear are three
piece units and the
side panels are one
piece. McK
makes the kits after
you place your order
and it usually takes
approximately 2
weeks. The
kits are shipped via
UPS.
The kit on my car is
by two mfgr's. See
NATO Showroom for
pictures http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/nk_88tc.html
The front and rear
are single piece
fiberglass units
that were made by a
company called
Pacific (out of
business years ago).
The side panels are
single piece abs
plastic made by McK/Kobel.
These pictures are
courtesy of McK.
Even though the car
in these pictures is
an 88 Sport model,
the kit for the TC
is basically the
same, the only
difference on the TC
kit is that it has
cutouts for the
driving/fog lamps.
You can't see it in
the picture, but on
the bottom front
edge, there is an
imprinted Tbird
emblem.
Programmed Ride Control Problems - by Jeff Korn
Question:
The Programmed Ride
Control on my 87-88
Turbo Coupe doesn’t
seem to be working
correctly and / or
the green PRC FIRM
light is
flashing.
Answer: If the PRC computer detects a fault in the system, it will flash the FIRM light. The PRC computer can be put into a self diagnostic mode just like the EEC can. To enter the PRC self test mode, do this: Remove the ash tray and locate the two terminal connector right under the ash tray. Fabricate a wire, like a bent paper clip, and jumper the two terminals on the connector. Be sure the PRC switch is set in the AUTO RIDE position, and start the car. Within 20 seconds of starting the car, remove the jumper wire, and watch the PRC FIRM light. Count the blinks of the firm light. The light will blink the same code 4 times, once every 9 seconds. Here is a brief explanation of the codes:
Code
1- Fault in LH rear
activator circuit, 2
- Fault in RH rear
activator circuit, 3
- Fault in RH front
activator circuit, 4
- Fault in LH front
activator circuit, 5
– Short in soft
shock relay control,
7 – Replace PRC
computer,
13 – Short
in hard relay
control, 14 –
Fault in relay
control circuit, 6
– no problem yet….
Further diagnostic
work needed.
The
Ford shop manual
contains a detailed
troubleshooting
procedure for each
code, which is
impractical to
reproduce here. If
specific information
is needed, ask on
the message board,
and someone should
be able to give you
the troubleshooting
details.
Question:
The Programmed Ride
Control on my 87-88
Turbo Coupe doesn’t
stay on FIRM all the
time when I put the
switch in the FIRM
position.
Answer: The most likely cause of this problem is a bad AUTO / FIRM switch. Before replacing the switch, try to clean it by blasting it liberally from both the front and back with electrical contact cleaner (available at Radio Shack) while working the switch between positions. Many times this will fix the problem. If the switch still doesn’t work, it is possible to take the switch apart and clean the contacts, and reassemble the switch, but if you try this, watch out for small springs and balls that may fly out of the switch. If you want to replace the switch with a new one, (if you can find a Ford dealer that actually has one), you will be in for a shock, as the switch is only sold as part of the whole assembly which includes the REG/ PREM fuel switch, power antenna switch, and the switch panel. The switch and panel assembly costs in excess of $100.
Programmed Ride Control Actuator Repair - by Don H.
I found that the actuators get stuck internally. The actuator is a small reversible motor. When the programmed ride control calls for firm or soft settings voltage is applied to spin a rotor about 90 degrees. This happens so quickly they put little rubber bumpers inside the actuators to stop the rotor movement and absorb the shock of it turning. The little rubber bumpers turn to goo inside and the rotor gets stuck at the firm or soft setting.
You have to remover the actuator from the top of the shock by squeezing the white plastic retainer. Once off and disconnected carefully pry up the two metal tabs on the wire retaining clip and remove the clip. Next, pry up the tabs holding the case of the actuator together and separate the case.
Inside you will find the rotor, a wire wound disk. Remove this and clean the black goo off the rotor and inside the case under the magnets. Thoroughly clean the contacts on the underside of the rotor and the semi circular contact in the case. These may be burned at one end or the other, so get that all off.
The two dissolved rubber bumpers have to be replaced with firm rubber 5/16 inch long. I cut pieces of vacuum hose that length, and cutting that piece into thirds along the length. The whole idea is to get the proper length bumper in place. When you take the actuator apart, the problem and the solution will be more obvious than I can describe.
Click
on the picture to
enlarge 
Picture
courtesy of JT.
Hood Liner/Under Hood Insulation
Original Equipment Hood Liners/Under Hood Insulation is obsolete for the TC's, however you can find aftermarket liners that you can cut to fit and actually provide better heat protection and sound dampening that OE liners. One such company that makes liners is Dynamat. http://www.dynamat.com/auto_hood.htm#Step_2
Quote from their description: "The Hoodliner is a polyether, urethane-based, thermo-acoustic foam with a reinforced aluminized facing and a pressure-sensitive adhesive on the application side. The Hoodliner is designed to be die cut to shape and then applied in a vehicle's engine compartment to the underside of the hood. The adhesive side is smooth, ensuring complete contact with the underlying surface without any air pockets of channels. Both material and adhesive can withstand temperature ranges between -40°F and +225°F (-40°C to +107°C)".
Changing Fuel Filter(s) - by Pete Dunham
Changing the fuel filter is fairly simple on all Turbocoupes and Turbo Cougars. All years use the same filter which is about the diameter of a soda can and not quite as long. It has small diameter tubes on each end that the fuel lines attach to. A fuel filter only costs about $10-12 and is an often overlooked maintenance item. A clogged filter can cause poor running conditions by limiting the proper flow of fuel to the engine. It can lead to premature fuel pump failure by causing the pump to work harder.
It is best to relieve any pressure in the fuel system before disconnecting the lines at the filter unless the car has sat over night. This can be accomplished one of several ways:
Recommended way:
One option is to unplug the fuel safety switch in the trunk, and start the car. The pressure has been relieved when the car stalls. After installing the new filter, plug the safety switch back in and turn the key to the on position once to have the fuel pump come on. Then turn it one more time to start the car.
Another option is to change the filter after the car has been parked overnight or for at least 6-8 hours. There should be little to no pressure in the line, but you still need to exercise caution when unplugging the fuel lines at the filter.
Last option (not recommended) is to relieve the pressure at the Schrader valve (which looks just like a tire valve) and it's located on the fuel rail behind the upper intake manifold. Just depress the little pin just like letting air out of a tire. Protect your face and eyes as gas will squirt out. Once the pressure is relieved, change the filter.
The 83 - 85 TCs have two fuel pumps, a small one in the tank and another one in line with the filter which is on the passenger side, underneath the car behind the back edge of the door. There is a bracket that holds it in place. Loosen the bracket and remove the two "U" shaped plastic clips that hold the fuel line connectors in place. Note that the filter is directional, and which way to install it will be marked on the new filter. Put the new filter in , replace the clips and tighten the bracket and you are done. If you break the U clips you can use plastic zip ties to hold the connectors in place. The Turbo Cougars should be exactly the same. On the 86-88 TCs the fuel filter is located just in front of the fuel tank on the passenger side, bottom of the car. Relieve the pressure as above and change the filter.
Installing Aftermarket Stereo - by Brandon Coop brandoncoop@aol.com
You are going to need the following items: A Generic stereo wiring harness adapter that you can get somewhere like Wal-Mart for a few bucks, you will also need a dash kit for your year of TC, they are about 20 bucks. The key to making this work is to disable all of the factory Premium sound equipment (except the speakers), otherwise you WILL NOT get it to work. The first thing to do it take the dash apart to get to the stereo... unscrew and unplug the stereo, and the equalizer. If you follow the two cables that were plugged into the stereo (which are black and grey) back into the dash a bit, you will see that one of them is plugged into another cable. This is the KEY.... you unplug that connection... plug the adapter from Wal-Mart that fits into THAT connection, not the identical one that you unplugged from the stereo. Now you still have that other plug from the stereo... (make sure you also reattach the ground cable to the center post sticking out of the back of your stereo) it's not an issue, you just plug the other adapter cable into that one and wire it to your stereo's harness. You just got the hard part done.
The last step to this is to go to your trunk. There is a factory amp in the trunk that needs to be unplugged or you'll overload it and it will all sound like crap. Take the black cardboard backing out of the trunk to get to the back seats. To take it out, there are three push style plastic pieces at the top lip of the trunk opening... take them out and you can remove that cardboard. Once it's removed, you'll see two aluminum pieces mounted to the back of the seats. One on the left, and one on the right. Look at the top on them for the white plastic piece with the bolt on it holding them upright (they are hinged at the bottom) Take that one bolt out and that aluminum piece will drop down. (You need to do this to the left panel, not the right). Once it has dropped down, you will see the amp mounted to the back of it. On the amp you will see two plugs that are plugged into it. Just unplug those, BOTH OF THEM... you may want to wrap the ends in electrical tape to be safe. Once you're done with that, fold that panel back up, reattach it, and put your trunk back together. Now all you need to do is put your new aftermarket stereo in the dash, and connect the wiring harness. This worked great for me since I didn't have to cut any wires or permanently change the wiring harness... which means if you sell the car, you can put all the old stuff back in. If you have any questions or problems email me at brandoncoop@aol.com I know this project really well now, cause it took me two days to figure it out. Have fun!
Engine
bucks/jumps few mins.
after startup then
runs fine
by Nate
Killmon & Jeff
Korn
This is a fairly common problem and usually results from a TFI/PIP problem, either one, or a combination of both. PIP's wear with mileage and as the sensitive electronics degrade with heat and time, they start to have problems.
Checking codes is the first step however keep in mind that sometimes a bad PIP / TFI will set a continuous memory code (but not always), the only way to tell is to remove and inspect/measure it. Look for a continuous memory code 14 (intermittent PIP failure) or a continuous memory code 18 (intermittent IDM failure). Also check the electrical connector to the TFI, as they tend to get dirty, and the pins tend to pull out. Sometimes, if you are lucky, removing the connector and blasting it out with electrical contact cleaner will cure the problem.
If it is indeed the PIP than replace it and the TFI at the same time, they work in unison and changing one without the other will cause your problem to worsen, or the problem may go away for a short time, and then return.
Some have found that it is just as cheap to replace the entire distributor that comes with a PIP already, as opposed to buying the parts and having a shop replace the PIP. The distributor drive gear has to be pressed off/on to replace the PIP. The TFI does not come with the new distributor so you will need to purchase one and ONLY!!! get FORD brand. Most all other brands to date have been known to have problems and fail within a short time frame. KEM also makes a high quality TFI, but it costs about as much as the Ford TFI.
Another thing to note is that a PIP code may not indicate a bad PIP either. I had a rather frustrating experience with Bosch plug wires, somehow they tripped a PIP code 14. After tracking the problems of missing under hard acceleration to the Bosch wires, removing them, clearing codes, the PIP code has never appeared again.
This list is from the 1988 EVTM
* LH fender apron near battery
* At rear window defrost grid
* lower RH side of engine
* near battery
* On RH floor pan
* RH floor pan
* lower RH cowl, near EEC (computer)
* LH rear of engine
* RH rear of engine
* RH fender near MAP sensor
* RH side of trunk
* at rear center of trunk
* at LH rear of engine near brake control unit
* Under center of instrument panel
* In trunk at radio amplifier
* trunk, at radio filter
* in trunk at amplifier
* Upper LH rear of engine
* LH center of dash
* Lower center of instrument panel
* under center of IP
* above LH headlamp assy
* above RH headlamp assy
* at LH rear of trunk above wheel house
Brake Booster Relay Diagnosis - by Jeff Korn
Find the relay with the T/Y, GY, GY/R, GY/Y, PK/LB wires. Remove the relay from its socket, and jumper the T/Y and GY/R terminals together with a heavy gauge jumper wire. Turn the key to run. You should be able to hear the hyd. pump running in the ABS unit. If you hear it run, but don't let it run for more than 10 seconds or so. If you hear it run, turn the key off and put the relay back in its socket. Now, turn the key on, and depress the brake pedal several times and see if the pump runs.
If it doesn't run, probe the PK/LB wire (stick pin thru wire, etc), and, with key on, ground this wire. Pump should run. If it does, the relay is good, if it doesn't run, but ran when the T/Y and GY/R wires were jumpered, then the relay is bad.
Be sure to check out the Technical Article TEVES II Electro-Hydraulic Braking System 87-88 TC's written by Jeff Korn which also covers the relay diagnosis and much more.
How
to Check distributor
cam wear with a
timing light
Article/picture
from Equus Tech
Tips http://www.timinglight.com/resource/techtips.cfm
Perform
this test after the
timing has been set
and the timing mark
lines up with the
reference pointer
for the No. 1
cylinder.
Connect timing light
to spark plug wire
directly opposite
(180 degrees) of the
No. 1 cylinder on
the distributor cap.
Start engine and aim
timing light towards
timing mark. Reading
should be the same
as when timing light
is connected to the
No. 1 cylinder.
(Timing mark should
line up with
reference pointer).
If reading IS NOT the same, you may have a worn distributor cam or bushing, or a bent distributor shaft. Repair as necessary.
87-88 Rear Brake Caliper Braket and Slider Pin Kit Parts #'s: - by Gary Schweikert
The
following part
numbers are for the
rear caliper
brackets and pin
kits.
RIGHT SIDE:
Bracket.....F1DZ-2B511-A
Pin
Kit.....E7SZ-2B296-A
LEFT SIDE:
Bracket.....F1DZ-2B512-A
Pin
Kit.....E7SZ-2B296-A
You need one pin kit
for each side, Pin
Kits include the
pins, grease, rubber
boots, and caliper
bolts.
Check Turbo Light - by Jeff Korn
Only one thing triggers the check turbo light: the overboost switch. If the light stays on all the time, either the overboost switch is bad, or the wiring between the light and switch is shorted to ground. Pull the electrical connector off the overboost switch (on back of pass side strut tower, has only one vac line to it, and a single elect. connector) and see if the light goes off. If it does, over boost sw is bad, if it stays, on you have a short to ground. If the switch is bad, I would just leave it disconnected.
BPV (ByPass Valve) vs BOV (Blow Off Valve) - What's the difference - - by Jeff Korn
BPV (ByPass Valve) - vents boost (high pressure air) back to the intake system before the turbo and after the air meter when you close the throttle under boost.
BOV (Blow Off Valve) - vents boost to the atmosphere when the throttle is closed.
Engine Overheating - John Draxler / Thunderbird Ranch http://www.tbirdranch.com
There are many things that can cause overheating. Most of you can list all the usual ones, and pretty much correct them. However there are times when you have done all these things and still have a problem. Overheating can be caused by a couple of things that are not cooling system related and these get overlooked most all the time. One is the timing. If your timing is set too early you will run a bit hotter than normal. If you suspect this then just retard the timing a bit and see if you can bring the temp down and still keep a good running engine.
Another one and one that is quite prevalent is when your engine runs lean it will run hot. It does not take much to make an engine run lean either. Lean condition can be caused by numerous things such as a bad O2 sensor, clogged injectors, plus a few others. Sometimes you will not notice it in the running of the engine hardly at all. So if your car tends to run hot and you are not positive that your fuel system is up to par............ check it out.
Also, be sure to check the operation of both fans as described in the Cooling Fan Test article on the NATO Technical Articles Page http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Cooling_Fan/CoolingFan.htm
Console Switch Panel Lettering - John Draxler / Thunderbird Ranch http://www.tbirdranch.com
If you have an 83-88 aero bird you probably have found that your console panel that houses the switches for the windows and seats gets pretty worn looking after a few years. Most have the lettering for the switches worn off by now and you are wondering how to restore this. Many of you have searched high and low for a good panel in all the yards and have called me and found that I do not have any either. I have found a fix. It is not an easy one however it is very cheap. You can repaint the panel with semi gloss black paint and then put new lettering on it. The hard part is finding the lettering. Well, I have found that model railroad folks use a rub-off transfer lettering that works well for this. You will find this stuff in local hobby stores where they sell model railroad supplies or pick up a model railroad magazine and check out the ads. If you decide to do this I suggest putting a coat of semi gloss clear coat on top of the lettering when you finish to protect your job.
Door Lock Switches (83-88 aero birds) - John Draxler / Thunderbird Ranch http://www.tbirdranch.com
If your door lock switch buttons do not work anymore you may be able to clean them and get them working again. Remove the panel and the switch from the panel. The switch can be taken apart. However it is very delicate. First get some electrical contact cleaner and hose it down good with that spraying into every crack and hole you can find. Work the switch a bit to see if you can get it to come back to life. If you are brave and want to open it up pay very close attention to how it is clipped together. That plastic is very delicate and breaks easily. I do offer a cleaning and reconditioning of the these if you prefer not to take a chance on breaking them.
Ignition Switch Installation Tip
Question:
I went to the Ford dealer and got a new switch. Came back to install it and decided before I actually put it in that I would connect it up to ensure it worked. As soon as I plugged the connector into the new switch, everything started working - blinkers, A/C Blower, back-up lights - everything that didn't work before. One problem though - the keys were still in my pocket !! SO I put the keys in my switch and tried to start the car and the car would not start. I assumed the switch was the wrong one for my car.
Answer:
The switch comes with the contacts set in the RUN position. TO properly install the switch, turn the key to RUN, and install it. Then turn the key to OFF before reattaching the connector. That way, the little pin will properly engage slot in the switch.
Tail Lights Quit Working - by Jeff Korn
At
the light switch
connector, jumper
the T/W wire to the
BR wire. If you have
tail lights, then
the light switch is
bad.
Do you have dash
lights? If so, fuse
4 is OK, and the
headlight switch is
probably good. If
you have front
parking lamps, but
the rears are out,
look for fuse 15 to
be blown.
Touble pulling codes - Jeff Korn
If you are correctly running the code test, and the EEC wont give any codes, check to be sure that the 02 sensor ground is connected. It is a orange wire with a ring terminal on it grounded at one of the 2 bolts at the turbo inlet elbow. If the 02 isn't grounded, the EEC will not give codes.
Door Hinge Fix - Jeff Korn
Question:
My doors sag when
they are opened.
What is the
problem?
Answer:
Your
hinge pins and
bushings are worn
out and need to be
replaced.
While any
body shop can
replace these, it
not too difficult to
do yourself.
The project
should take about 1
½ to 2 hours.
The biggest
problem is
supporting the heavy
door while the pin
is out of a hinge.
To support
the door, I made a
“U” shape out of
3 pieces of 2”x4”
lumber, each 10 ½”
long.
I mounted two
of the pieces on
each end of the
third piece so there
was a 7” gap
between the upright
pieces.
I used screws
and pieces of angle
iron to be sure it
was strong.
I drilled a
hole in the center
of the bottom of the
U, and put a long
bolt with a large
washer through the
hole.
I removed the
saddle from my floor
jack, ran the bolt
through the hole
that held the
saddle, and secured
the U to the floor
jack using a large
washer and nut.
To protect
the door, I glued
some old headliner
material inside the
U.
The U fits
between the inside
of the door, and the
trim on the outside
of the door, and
securely holds the
door in place when a
hinge is
removed.
Now for the pin and bushing replacement. Go to the HELP section of the local discount parts store, and get two #38410 Door Hinge Repair Kits, which are about $3 each. Open the door all the way, and somehow mark the exact locations of the hinges on the door. Support the door near the back end with the home made U tool described above, or use your own method. Note that having a person hold the door might not work, as these doors are HEAVY, and will need to be supported for 5 to 10 minutes! Do one hinge at a time! To remove the pins, I used a Dremmel tool with a grinding stone to grind off the top of the old pin, and used a long screwdriver as a drift to knock the pin out through the bottom. Once the pin is out, Use a ½” wrench or socket to remove the part of the hinge attached to the door (2 bolts). On the top hinge, the bushings are in the part of the hinge that is attached to the car frame, and can be knocked out with a long screwdriver and hammer once the outside part of the hinge is removed. Lube the new bushings, tap them into place, and reinstall the part of the hinge that was removed EXACTLY in the same position it was on the door. Lube the new hinge pin, and insert the new hinge pin from the bottom, tapping it in fully with a hammer and screwdriver, punch, etc. When fully seated, the groove for the E clip will just be visible at the top. Install the E clip, and you are done. The bottom hinge is done in nearly the same way, except the new pin is inserted from the top, and the E clip is inserted in the second groove of the pin. The bushings are in the part of the hinge that is removed, so replacing them is even easier than replacing the bushings on the top hinge. Note that the pin will stick out of the bottom of the hinge quite a way, but it doesn’t interfere with anything. After fixing my sagging, kind of hard to close driver side door, it now shuts just like the door on a new Lexus!!
Sunroof Leaks - Kevin Campbell
http://www.sunroofdoctor.com has the weather stripping, about $60. Factory exact replacement.
It is NOT hard to pull the window.
1.
Put the window in
the vent (rear high
) position.
2.
On the inside..
front edge.. the
black molding has
three little screws
.. remove them...
the molding then can
be slid to the rear
(gently).
3. Now the 6 phillip screws that hold glass panel in are exposed. Three on each side. Remove those and then lift the glass out.
4.
Pull the old weather
stripping off...
clean the mating
surface. ( I used
carb cleaner on a
rag, a razor blade
and elbow grease).
5.
Test fit the new
gasket (it is too
long and will need
to be trimmed).
6. Use weather-stripping cement. I used 3M brand. Follow cement directions.
7.
Helps to have a
second set of hands
when putting on the
gasket so as not to
get the cement on
anything you don't
want it on.
8.
Install new strip,
pressing firmly all
the way around to
insure a good bond.
9.
Let it setup for
30-40 minutes. Then
reverse the
procedure used to
take the window
out.. reinstalling
the glass.
10. Put the window in the closed position and let it set for a day or so. The gasket needs to form against the body. Otherwise it is apt to bind when you try and retract the roof into the body.
Pretty simple.. made a BIG difference in wind noise reduction. My previous old gasket leaked in a high pressure car wash. This one doesn't leak at all.
Installing New Headliner by Mr. T
To
remove it, you need
to take out all of
the surrounding
upper trim: Visors,
front trim, side
trim, rear 1/4 trim
panels, rear trim if
you have an '83-'86.
Take the dome lamp
out. Next, put the
seats in full
recline and at the
lowest setting if
you have power. Then
have someone help
you and take it out
through the
passengers door.
As for the new
liner, you MUST take
off all of the old
liner first. The
tedious part is
cleaning the foam
backing off the
cardboard. You can
scrape a lot of it
off w/ your hand,
but the remaining
particles need to be
taken off w/ a scrub
brush.
You should get the
majority of it off
and you will be left
w/ just a thin layer
of the old dried
glue remaining on
the board. This is
okay. You will want
to re-attach the new
liner w/ 3M Super
Trim Adhesive in a
spray can (I think
the part # is 08090)
You may receive a
lot of opinions on
the glue, but I
spoke w/ Auto
upholstery shops and
they swear this is
the only stuff that
holds up properly to
the extended high
temperatures that
the roof can see
during summer
months. It is
expensive (about
$14/ can plus tax).
You will need at
least two cans.
I suggest attaching
it in two stages.
Make all of your
cuts for
attachment/clearance
holes AFTER it is
fully cured in
place. Make sure you
have more headliner
than you need so it
extends past the
edges. Start by
spraying half of the
board and half of
the headliner and
letting it get
tacky. Then folding
the headliner down
to the board and
lightly rolling it
out w/ a small paint
roller. Start from
the middle and work
your way out toward
the sides. Again, it
is best to have
someone help you to
manipulate the
headliner and board.
After you finish one
side, repeat on the
other half. You may
want to leave it
face up for a day to
give it ample time
to cure.
Rewire Fog Lights by Jeff Korn
The
stock fog light
wiring system is
poorly designed at
best, and puts undue
electrical loading
on the light switch,
multifunction
switch, and wiring
harness. Putting
higher than the
stock 55 Watt bulbs
in the fog lights
will cause even more
problems, and lead
to light switch
and/or multifunction
switch failure.
There is a
simple solution to
this problem –
rewire the system to
operate the fog
lights through a
relay.
When a relay
is used, the fog
lamp circuit only
carries about 100
milliamps of current
instead to the 10
amps it carries
using the stock 55 W
bulbs, or 19 amps
when 100 W “off
road” bulbs are
used.
This can
greatly extend the
life of the light
switch and
multifunction switch
if you use your fog
lights often.
A small
amount of additional
wiring will make the
fog lights come on
automatically when
you switch to high
beams, which will
really light up a
dark road ahead.
I have the
fog lights wired
this way on all
three of my cars,
and really like the
light they throw.
No wires need
to be run through
the firewall to do
these mods. All the
wiring is done near
the front of the
car, on the drivers
side.
DISCLAIMER:
In many areas, using
your fog lights with
high beams is
illegal, so this
part mod is “for
off road only”.
There, I said
it, so the DOT can’t
come after me.
The
basic mod: operating
the fog lights
through a relay:
Parts needed: A 30 amp fog light relay (about $4 at any parts store), a relay socket or 4 female spade connectors to mate up with the relay terminals, a fuse holder and a 30 A fuse, several feet of 10 gauge and several feet of 14 gauge automotive wire.
I suggest all connections be soldered, but I suppose some splice connectors would work. The wire color codes listed are for the 87-88, but MIGHT be the same for 83-86, bit I am not sure.
Locate a place to mount the relay, and mount it. I mounted mine to the top of the core support near the battery using a small metal “L” bracket. Crawl under the front of the car and locate the harness going to the fog lights. Locate a part of the harness before it splits off to each fog light, and extract several inches of the Tan / Orange wire from the harness. Cut this wire. Attach a piece of 10 ga wire to the Tan / Orange wire GOING TO THE FOG LIGHTS, and run this wire to one of the two relay contacts. Run another piece of 10 ga wire from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid to a fuse holder, and from the fuse holder to the other relay contact terminal. The fuse should be located as close to the starter solenoid as possible. TRYING TO GET BY WITHOUT USING A FUSE IS ASKING FOR TROUBLE! Run a piece of 14 ga wire from the other Tan / Orange wire (coming from the harness going toward the rear of the car) to one of the relay coil terminals. Run another piece of 14 ga wire from the other relay coil terminal to a good ground. I used the same screw that mounts the relay to the core support for a ground.
Having
the fog lights turn
on automatically
whenever the high
beams are switched
on:
Parts needed: the only additional parts needed are two small 1 amp rectifier diodes, 1N4003, 1N4005, 1N4007, etc, available at Radio shack, and some more 14 gauge wire.
Only a small amount of additional wiring is needed to make the fog lights come on with the high beams. Put one of the diodes in the Tan / Orange wire going to the relay coil. This diode lets current from the fog light switch flow to the relay, but blocks any current from the high beams from flowing back to the light switch. Find the Light Green / Black high beam power feed wire going to the driver side headlight, and tap into it with a length of 14 ga wire. Run this wire to another diode, and run the other side of the diode to the relay coil terminal that the Tan / Orange fog light wire goes to. This diode will pass current to the relay whenever the high beams are turned on, thus turning on the fog lights, but will block the fog light current from turning on the high beams. BE SURE TO CONNECT THE DIODES WITH THE CORRECT POLARITIES, OR NOTHING WILL WORK CORRECTLY!!!
Twin
Turbos vs Single
Turbo
by Rod Short - Sales
Manager - Precision
Turbo & Engine
and Dave Andrews -
Garrett Engine
Boosting Systems
Recently a NATO member e-mailed me and asked us to respond to the threads about twin vs. single turbo applications.
Before anyone starts throwing stones, readers should be aware that we are involved with both twin turbo and single turbo applications, so we do not have a vested interest in either. Precision Turbo did the turbos and intercoolers for the first Sport Compact into the 6-second zone (Grant Downing - twin turbo 3.0L inline six cylinder) and the quickest and fastest single turbo small block door slammer on the planet right now (Chuck Samuel - single turbo 375 cid 6.44 @ 220 mph)
We talked with Dave Andrews at Garrett Engine Boosting Systems who is an application engineer that's had considerable experience designing race-only turbos of a wide variety of race applications. His response is as follows:
"There is currently a myth that multiple turbos are inherently better than a single turbo when it relates to gasoline turbo charging," Dave said. "This simply isn't true. A large single turbo is always more efficient than multiple smaller units. The increased turbocharger efficiency afforded by larger units results in less backpressure, lower intake manifold temperatures and often better transient response. As turbochargers increase in size, they become more efficient. In the case of the centrifugal compressor wheel, as the wheel diameter gets larger, the blades experience less back-flow due to favorable wheel/housing tip clearances. The turbine wheel shares the same benefits when run in larger diameters. These increases in compressor and turbine efficiency produce a higher overall turbo efficiency."
"The actual differences between single and twin turbos as it relates to horsepower can be significant" he continued. "For example, on a 400-cid pro 5.0 engine, a well matched single turbo can create the same boost pressure as twins, but with 12psi lower exhaust manifold pressure. The lower exhaust pressure results in lower engine pumping losses and a slight increase in volumetric efficiency. In addition, the single turbo will operate at a higher compressor efficiency. This has two effects: less turbine power required (lower backpressure) and lower intake manifold temperature. It's very possible to see 40 degrees or lower compressor outlet temperatures from a good single turbo versus smaller twins. This translates into a cooler, denser intake manifold charge. Comparing a large turbo compressor map to a smaller unit with half the flow capability will immediately show the difference in compressor efficiency at a given pressure ratio."
"I only know of two situations where multiple turbos are better suited," Dave said in closing. "The first situation relates to high boost diesel turbo charging where the user needs boost pressures over 60psi. Competitive tractor pull vehicles often use multiple turbos. In this case, series turbo charging (where one compressor feeds into another compressor) works much better than a single unit in building ultra high boost levels. Another example of series turbo charging is on high altitude aircraft. The current record holding aircraft for high altitude climbing uses two (and sometimes three) turbochargers in series to make up for low air pressure at altitude. In both of these examples the user requires a pressure ratio in excess of 5:1 whereas nearly all gasoline powered racing bodies run below 3:1 pressure ratio (less than 30psi of boost). Hope this sheds some light on the topic.
Rod
Short - Sales
Manager - Precision
Turbo & Engine
Dave
Andrews - Garrett
Engine Boosting
Systems
What does "A/R" mean in relation to Turbochargers? - by Pete Dunham from Corky Bell's book, "Maximum Boost"
It is the area to radius ratio. Think of a long ice cream cone. Now think of that cone wrapped around a shaft kind of like a snail shell. Cut a little bit off the closed tip of the cone. This hole is the discharge area for the exhaust gases. The area of this hole is the "A" of A/R ratio. The "R" is the distance from the center of the area (A) to the center of the shaft. No matter where along the cone you make this measurement the A/R for a give cone will be the same. Back to the small open end of the cone. This determines the velocity of exhaust gases exiting the cone and therefore the velocity of exhaust gases as they pass over the turbine wheel. Overly simplified, the smaller the A/R , the quicker the turbo will spool up, but also the more it will contribute to higher back pressure and reversion into the combustion chambers. The smaller A/R also limits max turbine speed.
This means that the .48 A/R turbine side (T3) will spool a little quicker than the .63 A/R and will have higher back pressure, while the .63 can achieve a higher turbine speed (pump more air on the top end) This is a generalization. There are other factors that determine overall turbocharger performance.
The preceding was loosely paraphrased from Corky Bell's book, "Maximum Boost", ISBN 0-8376-0160-6 from Robert Bentley Publishers. I got mine at Amazon. I highly recommend it for anyone wanting to learn about turbocharging.
Converting
Canadian Speedo to
US 120 mph
by
Sam of Sam's
Fox ThunderCats
at http://www.foxthundercats.com/
As
you all know, the
standard 85 MPH
speedometer in these
cars is a joke. The
140 MPH Motorsports
unit is great, but
on the rare occasion
that you find one
the guy wants a mint
for it. We Canadians
fare much better -
we get a 200 km/hr
(120 MPH) speedo
from the factory.
This speedo will
bolt right into your
US cars, but the
odometer will
measure out
kilometers instead
of miles. This means
that for every mile
you put on the car
the odometer
registers 1.6 - in
other words, you end
up showing many more
miles than what
you've actually got
on the car.
I recently installed
a TC cluster into my
'88 5.0 'Bird, and I
did the tach mod to
make it accurate for
a V8. It got me
thinking, though,
that perhaps the
speedometer could be
modified as well, so
that the odometer
showed miles instead
of kilometers. Today
I took apart a
Canadian and an
American analogue
speedometer to see
what the differences
were. I found that
as far as the
odometer is
concerned the
differences are
purely mechanical -
the gearing is
different between
the two, but the
electronics are
identical. This
means that, as I had
originally
suspected, you can
install a Canadian
120-MPH speedometer
into your car with
the US odometer
attached to it.
There are only three
screws holding the
odometer assembly to
the speedo head, so
the swap is
quite
straightforward. Now
you can have your
120 MPH speedo with
US odometer for a
fraction of what a
Motorsports speedo
would cost!
Oil
Pressure Problems -
Gauge, Sensor or
what?
by Jeff Korn
What does the gauge read with the key on, engine off? Does it read zero pressure? With the key on, pull the wire off the oil press sender. Does the gauge now drop to zero? If so, short the wire that goes to the press sender to ground. Does the gauge go to the same place it does when the car is running? As a last test, hook a DMM set on a low ohms range between the oil press sensor and ground with the car running. Resistance should be around 5 to 10 ohms, roughly. If it reads zero ohms, sensor is bad. BTW, have you put a real mechanical gauge on it to see what the press really is?
Ford had a bunch of complaints about high oil press readings on the factory gauge (in the red at high end of scale).... their solution. Put a pin in the gauge to keep the needle from ever going into the red!!
Ranger
Fan Conversion
by Gary S. email: smitgar@shaw.ca
Here is
the basic list of things I used. All junkyard parts. Cheap!
1. Ranger Clutch and Fan assembly
2. Aerostar shroud
3. Upper Rad hose (I got this off my parts car but
these are
some #'s on the hose
itself 6A03 EBP 80MH19 21163
4. I used a 4" wide strip of sheet metal to extend
shroud into
blades but 6" would have
been better.
Start by removing the dual fan assemblies. Unplug and remove wires and tuck them away over by the fender, making sure they won't blow back into new fan blades or belts. If you have the upper rad hose with the kink in it you are ok for fan blade clearance. My upper hose went straight toward thermostat housing and would have been in the way of fan blades so I robbed the kicked out one from my parts car. Next remove 4 bolts on water pump pulley and remove metal spacer. I did this without removing belt but watch out, the pulley will kick off to one side. Now bolt on the Ranger clutch fan assembly and tighten bolts evenly. Now the shroud fits right into the bottom clips and use the two top bolts, just move the threaded clips to where you need them. If you want the shroud extension (it will help pull more air through) wrap the metal extension around the shroud and pop rivet on. There may be a better fitting shroud, I don't know for sure but I got mine free so extending it was easy option. I think that wraps it up but email me for any questions if anything seems vague.
Clutch
Fork part number/info
by Pete Dunham
Info
as of Feb. 2004
This is for those of you that own manual transmission 87-88 Turbo Coupes. It recently came to my attention that Ford discontinued the clutch forks for the 87-88 hydraulic clutch system. These had been available through dealers until recently. I got this information from my local Ford dealer when I tried to purchase a couple of these forks. What they told me is that a place in Wisconsin named Vintage Auto Parts has somewhere between 90 and 115 of these left. I do not know if anybody else has any or not. The phone # for Vintage is 877-846-8243. However when I called them to order the parts, they told me they had them but that the forks had to ordered through a Ford dealer. Vintage would not sell direct to me. I have been able to order some through my dealer. Delivery only takes a couple days. Like I said, I don't know if any other obsolete parts dealer (like Green Sales) has any or not. My dealer provided me with all the info on Vintage, including the phone number. if you go to your dealer, they should see it in their computer when they look up the Part #: E7SZ-7515-A.
Insurance
Claim Tips & Advice
by
Matt S.
maryskinny@comcast.net
I just got notice today, after almost 3
months since I wrecked it, that insurance will pay me $4,000 to rebuild my car
and not total it out or even mark the title rebuilt. I'm hoping my experience
will save someone else's car down the road. I've heard of cars being totaled
just for a cracked header panel. That's (expletive) insane. The burden of proof
for the value of your car is on YOU, unfortunately. Grab every listing you can.
Point out the mileage/condition/rust differences. Just say no. Every time your
insurance comes to you with a number, it will only be a few hundred more than
the last time. Ask for proof on where they got their numbers. Contradict their
findings with your own facts. If they called the auto trader listings you
provided, make them tell you WHICH ONES they called, then point out those cars
are far away, and that you also talked to the owner and these
differences/damage/options are worth more money. Every time your insurance
offers you a number, they will tell you the next step is for you to hire an
appraisal. Tell them they have not exercised a good faith negotiation on price,
or due diligence in considering your research and receipts. Most states laws
have these buzz words in them regarding total loss, and these words always work
in your favor. File a complaint with the insurance commissioner; they got REALLY
honest after I did.
In most states, they can not contractually force you to hire an appraiser until
all of their estimates are documented in the mail to you. Always ask for proof
that you can verify, make them prove where they got their numbers. Make sure
they value your car to your car. Remember the initial valuation I got only had
one TC, 3 SC's and the rest v6 POS cars. I got them to throw that out.
Wait...Wait...Wait. They'll say they will call you tomorrow. So what if they
don't (and won't). I noticed they always called me after 2 1/2 weeks; they get
pressured for not closing a claim. This is the crucial key in any negotiation,
and it only serves to better the "coercion by no action" code of insurance law.
Use your judgment, if it's too long, the same could be said of you. However,
they were always "sorry it is taking so long" which I replied "..of the other 2
cars I had to choose from in my driveway."
In the last few weeks, with the insurance commissioner office waiting for a
response so now the fire's lit up, I started to hint I wasn't happy with their
valuation etc. and wanted to keep it if they won't value it right. That's when I
got back to the adjuster and reminded him I wanted a copy of the repair
estimate, and also of the talk we had about parts when he looked at the car 2
months ago.
[end edit]
Work with your adjuster that you can get parts cheaper than a dealer (honest
truth they shopped at a dealer for a hood...1500 bucks!!!). Make sure the parts
they have in the repair estimate are accurate and not duplicated or not needed.
They had me down for 2 header panels and 2 bumpers...and a new VAM, radiator, AC
condenser. I called BS on that, and got the estimate down to $4k from $6500. I
showed them where they can get recycled parts locally cheaper, and told them I
can get parts here also.
Find yourself a body shop willing to take your cause. Since you will get the
money to turn over to the body shop, you can work a cash deal and show up with
parts for them saving money. A good body shop will be more than willing to work
with your adjuster - the one I found knew my adjuster from previous work. Keep
all your receipts...take good pictures of your car now before it's wrecked (my
beach pictures wow'd them). Tell them you don't need this car, you have others
to drive to keep them from pressuring you to settle. It's well worth the wait.
You don't have to be a lawyer (I'm not - but I happen to have a degree in
entertainment law) just persistent, factual, and pleasant to all parties no
matter how pissed you may be. [edit] You have to read and understand your
policy. Know the insurance laws for your state, understand it's terms.
Facts and truth always overcome the big company. Smiling ear to ear
NOTE:
This is not legal advice, just my experience. I had the leverage of being on the
west coast where only ONE car was published on the internet in 2 1/2 months.
Washington State has a liberal term for defining value as "actual cash value"
which was great because it's highly open to debate and not locked by an
appraisal firm.
Red Fluid Leaking From Gillis
Valve
by
Bob Myers
martin0660@aol.com
Question:
Has anybody had experience with reddish oil leaking out of the body of their Gillis Boost Valve? I installed mine yesterday and after running it today, found reddish colored oil leaking from the body of the valve by the adjustment screw. The screw is adjusted so that 3-4 threads are showing. I'm getting good boost but I'm a little worried as to why my car is "bleeding."] Any ideas or suggestions?
This would apply to any red fluid in almost any hose or connection to the vacuum tree and vacuum subsystems.
Answer:
If your car is an automatic, I bet you vacuum modulator is leaking. The vacuum modulator is on the side of the transmission. There is a vacuum line that runs from the modulator to the vacuum system on the car. Transmission fluid is being sucked through the broken diaphragm and up the vacuum hose to the engine. It's Pretty easy to swap, and not to expensive.
Door
Handle(s) Loose
by
Eric, from
Cool Cats
Question:
Anybody else's door handles loose? when I pull up to open the door the handle
swings about a half inch before it unlatches the door. Is there anyway to
tighten it up? I am assuming there is a bar attached to the latch mechanism
right? any way to adjust it there?
Potential answers:
If the rod between the handle and latch mechanism is even slightly bent, that
can lead to slack in the handle. Sometimes trying another rod altogether solves
the problem. Sometimes it's a matter of the handle gradually going up on the
factory rivets. Sometimes the plastic grommet on the inside of the door handle
needs replaced. Sometimes the latch mechanism needs replaced. I had this same
problem on my old T-Bird Sport...the latch mechanism was probably the culprit.
The factory rivets, as mentioned, will
loosen over time and that lets the handle wiggle. At this time I don't know of a
permanent way to fix that. It is possible that one could remove the door panel,
reach in with some pliers and try to flatten out the rivets a little. The
problem with that is, if you wiggle them too much, the metal on the rivets will
snap off. It may be possible to jam something like a matchbook in behind it to
keep the tension.
If you are not so concerned about keeping the original rivets, the best solution
I've found is to drill them out and replace them with 1"-long carriage bolts. A
little thread-locker, a lock washer and you're all set. Should the handle ever
become loose you can always tighten it down. And this also lets you wiggle the
handle to its optimum position, relative to the rod, to eliminate slack. Another
bonus: it's much, much harder for anyone to try and drill out a carriage bolt,
therefore it's got an additional safety measure.
I'm not a big believer in rivets as a permanent solution to most anything, and
with the case of our door handles, they eventually fail. They were just easier
to install on the assembly line, I'm sure.
All
articles contained
herein are for
reference
only.
NATO and it's
members take no
responsibility for
the outcome of any
modifications or
repairs.
