How
to do a Compression
Test
by
Pete Dunham
The engine should be warmed up to normal operating temp before the test. The car battery should be in very good condition and fully charged. Advice, now is the perfect opportunity to do a quick tune-up with a fresh new set of plugs and wires, cap and rotor.
Tools needed:
- Compression Tester (type the screws into the spark plug hole)
- Spark plug wrench
- approx 6" length of 3/8" rubber hose/tubing or old spark plug boot (not required)
- motor oil (whatever you are using in the car)
- other hand tools for removing the IC
- clothes pins or tape and a pen to mark each spark plug and wire
- advice... have at least one spare plug on hand incase you crack one during removal
Perform the following steps:
1.
FIRST AND FOREMOST,
take a air
compressor or shop
vac and clean the
area around each
spark plug recess
BEFORE removing the
plugs in order to
prevent any
dirt/sand from
dropping into the
cylinder. If
you have oil and
dirt caked
around/inside the
recess, take a long
screw driver (or
similar) and scrap
it clean, then
vacuum it out or use
compressed air to
remove the
rest. Also
clean the area
around the IC and
throttle body hoses.
2.
Remove the I/C or
the hose from the IC
or compressor outlet
tube to the throttle
body, and block
the throttle plate
open. If you
remove the IC, be
sure to cover the
turbo inlet hole
with a towel or
cup. Do NOT
stuff a rag in the
hole, lay it over
it.
3.
MARK EACH SPARK PLUG
AND WIRE
with clothes pins or
tape and a pen so
you can return them
to the proper
location when
reinstalling them.
Don't laugh, there
has been quite a few
people that have
reinstalled the
wires in the wrong
order thinking they
could remember.
4.
Remove all 4 spark
plugs. Use the kind
of compression gauge
that screws into the
spark plug holes for
best results.
Perform the test on
one cylinder at a
time.
5.
Install the
Compression tester
into the first hole,
then crank
the engine over with
the starter and
allow 5 to 6
compression strokes
on each cylinder.
Ideally you should
hope to see 120 to
150+ in each
cylinder. The Ford
spec is that the
lowest cylinder
should be 75% of the
highest. I think
that's way to loose.
It would allow 140
in the highest
cylinder (for
example) and 101 in
the lowest cylinder.
Personally I would
want to see all
cylinders within 10
to 15 psi.
6.
Repeat the test at
least two times
(preferably three
times) on each
cylinder in order to
get an accurate
average on each.
7.
If you get a low
reading on a
cylinder, try adding
about a tablespoon
of oil to each
cylinder. If the
readings go up
significantly the
second time around,
you know the rings
are weak/bad. If the
compression is low
and doesn't go up
significantly in
round 2, then
compression is
leaking past the
valves or the cam
lobes are worn significantly.
A lower compression
reading in one or
two adjacent
cylinders can be
sign of a blown head
gasket.
8. Once your have tested each cylinder, reinstall the plugs and wires in the proper order. TIP: place a spark plug in the 6" length of rubber hose (or old spark plug boot) then install the plug. This gives you more to hold onto and helps get the plug in those hard to reach spots and makes it easier to get the plug started in the threads.