Ric Gillis Adjustable Boost Control Valve
Installation
Details
87-88
Turbocoupes,
86 SVO, earlier
Turbocoupes
and SVOs similar
These instructions and diagram are NOT intended to replace or revise the instructions you receive with the Gillis Valve. These instructions are only intended as an addition aid to help you in your install. Please read and follow the Gillis installation instructions first and foremost.
First step is to locate the components under your hood before removing, changing or installing anything.
1. Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) is located on the passenger side inner fender near the fresh air tube from the fender well. It is cylindrical, 2" in diameter and has 2 vacuum lines going to it as well as an electrical connector.
2. The vacuum tree, its black plastic and located on the firewall near the master brake cylinder, has several ports with vacuum hoses running to it.
3. The Waste Gate Actuator (WGA), it's a round diaphragm type device located underneath the turbocharger. It has a vacuum port on one side and a long thin rod on the other that actuates the waste gate. You will be running a vacuum line FROM the Boost Valve to the vacuum line going to the WGA.
4. The Compressor Outlet, which is attached by rubber tubing, to the bottom of the Intercooler. On non-intercooled cars it connects, by tube and hose to the throttle body on the upper intake. Note the vacuum fittings on the compressor outlet.
Determining the INLET and OUTLET ports of the Gillis Valve. See the diagram that came with the valve.
The INLET port is at the opposite end from the adjustment knob.
The
OUTLET port
is in the middle of
the valve and comes
off the valve at a
90 degree
angle.
1.
Follow the
hose from the top
port of the BCS to
the 2 port fitting
on the compressor
outlet. Remove the
end from the
compressor outlet
fitting, leave the
other end attached
to BCS. The other
hose on the
Compressor outlet
fitting goes to the
WGA. Remove this
hose from the outlet
fitting and put a
straight-line
connector into it.
2.
Remove the 2
port fitting form
the Compressor
outlet and install
the 1/8 hex plug in
the fitting hole.
3.
Follow the
hose from the bottom
port of the BCS to
the fitting on the
compressor inlet.
Remove the hose from
the inlet port and
cap off the port.
4.
Decide where
you want to mount
the Boost Valve.
Mounting it to one
of the bolts that
holds the VAM
bracket to the
passenger inner
fender is a good
location. The VAM
is the big
aluminum thing that
connects, by hose,
to the Compressor
Inlet. The bracket
that supports it
mounts to the inner
fender with two
bolts. Mounting it
here keeps the
vacuum lines short
while making the
valve easily
accessible for
adjusting.
5.
Measure the
length of hose
needed to go from
the Boost Valve
OUTLET (see valve
diagram) to the
straight-line
connector in the
hose to the WGA,
(see #1
above). Cut hose to
the length needed
and install on Boost
Valve Outlet and
straight-line
connector.
6.
Install one
end of remaining
vacuum hose on the
Boost Valve INLET;
(see valve diagram).
Run the other end to
any unused port on
the Vacuum Tree on
the firewall.
7.
The two hoses
attached to the BCS
can be left attached
to it. Leave the BCS
in the car with the
electrical connector
plugged in. This is
so the system can be
restored to original
if you ever desire
to uninstall the
boost valve. The
vacuum ports on the
BCS are kind of
fragile and that is
why you shouldn't
try to remove the
hoses from it. It is
an obsolete part
from Ford Motor Co.
and hard to replace.
8.
If any of the
vacuum lines are
brittle, cracked or
loose at connection
points they should
be replaced with new
vacuum line of the
correct size.
9.
Adjust the
valve so at least 4
or 5 threads are
showing visible on
the adjusting knob.
Tighten the lock nut
securely and go for
a test drive.
Monitor your boost
gauge and listen for
any unusual sounds
(detonation). Make
adjustments
gradually.
Other
considerations:
It's recommended to use an aftermarket boost gauge or better yet, a combination Vacuum/Boost gauge. There are a few brands available. It's better to use one that goes to 30 psi boost instead of 20 psi. Gauges tend to be more inaccurate at the ends of their scale. The factory boost gauge is often inaccurate and more so at the top end.
NATO and it's members bear no responsibility for the results of any modification(s) listed.
A simple diagram (courtesy of Gary Schweikert:
