Head Gasket Replacement
First
and foremost, you
should get a shop
manual (preferably
Helm), a supply of
plastic storage bags
that can be labeled.
Put nuts and bolts
and small parts in
bags and label them,
religiously.
Below is a condensed
list of things to
do. Please refer to
a shop manual for
complete
instructions.
The
head can be removed
without pulling the
turbo.
Set crank to TDC on
#1 compression
stroke.
Drain coolant,
disconnect battery
Remove pipe (or
inter cooler) from
compressor outlet to
throttle body,
unbolt EGR pipe from
upper intake.
Remove breather from
valve cover.
Disconnect wiring
connectors at the
IAC and TPS at
throttle body.
Remove heater hose
retaining screw to
rocker cover.
Disconnect
distributor cap and
spark plug wires and
remove assy.
Disconnect required
vacuum lines (upper
intake) and PCV
hoses to upper
intake.
Remove dipstick.
Remove one bolt
holding dipstick
tube bracket to
wiring harness
bracket - upper
intake.
Remove upper intake
and throttle body
(as one piece).
Remove rocker cover
bolts.
Remove coolant hose
at bottom center of
lower intake.
Loosen alternator
retaining bolts,
remove belt from
pulley,remove
bracket retaining
bolts from head.
Remove upper
radiator hose from
thermostat housing.
Remove 4 cam belt
cover bolts.
Remove cam idler
retaining bolts(2)
Position idler in
the unloaded
position and tighten
retaining bolts.
Remove cam belt.
(the book says
remove the lower
intake but I think
it's easier once the
head is out of the
car) You don't have
to remove it if: it
doesn't interfere w/
fuel rail (see
below) or head is
not going to be
machined.
Disconnect wire lead
to oil sending unit.
Disconnect harness
to fuel injectors.
Unbolt the fuel rail
from lower intake If
you can move it
aside do so, other
wise you will
have to disconnect
it from the fuel
supply and return
lines at the back
end of the fuel
rail,
(it is easier to
disconnect them at
the lower end, under
the car).
Remove timing belt
cover, belt, pulley.
Loosen down pipe at
turbo elbow (don't
remove nuts,
loosen).
Disconnect oil
supply line at
turbo.
Remove exhaust
manifold to head
bolts .
Remove cylinder head
retaining bolts.
Remove cylinder
head. Get help for
this and remember
that the oil supply
line to the turbo is
still connected to
the head at the oil
supply manifold,
don't damage it.
Clean all gasket
surfaces.
VERY IMPORTANT:
THOROUGHLY clean out
the head bolt holes
in the block. This
is a must do, leave
no oil or crap in
the bottom of the
holes.
Check head to block
surfaces for
flatness, have head
milled if needed or
you will be doing
this again soon.
Cylinder head bolt
torque is 80 to 90
FT Lbs. Tighten in 3
steps, first to 30
ft lbs, 2nd to 60
ft. lbs and the
final step to full
torque. Start with
the bolts in the
center of the head
and work your way to
each end alternating
bolts on each side
and each end.
Torque sequence is:
( #1 is on the
exhaust side of the
head and #s 8 &
9 are at the front
of the head)
9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10
I recommend using
new head bolts but
they can be reused
at least once. You
can grind the hex
head of a couple old
ones and then cut a
slot in the middle
and use these to
guide the head on
then use a
screwdriver to
unscrew then.
Lower intake to
cylinder head 15-22
ft lbs. Start in the
center and work out
as for head.
All other torque
specs: tight enough
Felpro makes 2 head
gaskets that work on
the turbo engine.
- The 8993 is the cheaper of the two and perfectly good for most applications.
- The 1035 is the better of the two and should be used on high HP application, expensive.
Keep
in mind that the
head gasket acts
like a safety valve,
it's better to use
the 8993 gasket
which will blow
before other major
internal damage can
occur. The
1035 should only be
used for high
performance
application such as
racing and those
producing over 300
hp.
This might be a good
time to do any or
all of the
following: new
timing belt, new
idler tensioner, new
thermostat, new
water pump. Rebuild
the head, port the
head and manifolds.
Install new cam or
at least stock valve
springs and valve
stem seals, valve
job. Also remove the
coolant fitting from
the lower intake and
check it and the
hole it goes into
for blockage (if
applicable). New oil
pressure sending
unit. New coolant
hoses everywhere,
now is the time to
do those hard to get
to hoses on the
driver's side of the
block.